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Simple network wiring Thesis statement This report is to include the basics of the physical wiring of computer networks. Outline I. Introduction A. Professional wiring. B. Using hubs.
II. Body A. Saving money. B.
Tools needed. C. Proper placement. D. Connectors. III.
Conclusion A. Plug in and go. B. Good luck -Page 2 Simple network wiring Professional wiring can cost hundreds of dollars per connection and there never seems to be enough drops. A year after most companies upgrade their network wiring, they find themselves needing to once again rebuild.
With three to six drops per office, this can be a healthy bill for the company. There is a better way. Use hubs anywhere you would have put extra drops. Drops are the actual runs of wire that run into the room. Each cable that comes from the main backbone cable, or central point of connection is the "Drop." Use the hub to plug everything into. For simple nets you won't need a filtering bridge or router, just a plain unfiltered hub.
If you have a DSL or cable model connection, you may want a firewall. In large nets routers are crucial so that heavy internal traffic in one group does not slow down people in other groups. But hubs can be added most anywhere, and are a great way to save on extra wiring. Hubs are available from most any computer mail order, or a good local shop.
It is a good idea to get more ports than you need now. Hubs can be 10 or 100 Megabit per second, or able to auto-switch between the two. An 8 -port 10 / 100 MB Ethernet hub is now about $ 37. 00. That is far less than a single drop. It is less than -Page 3 just the wire and connectors for the 7 added drops you get. 100 MB hubs are a bit more, around 50. 00 for the Linksys 8 port. But it is still less than wiring.
The general principle is to pull one or 2 drops to each relevant wall, and when you need more just stick in a hub. If you use a hub and put the drops into the inside walls between the rooms, or in the corners they will reach two, or in the center, four interior walls from one point. By doing this you can get by with fewer "real" drops and save the company money. Say a company wanted 150 drops. A realistic figure for an average first time drop is around $ 350. 00. That would come to $ 52, 500.
Every drop the company can eliminate saves them enough money to buy 8 hubs. So when someone wants to do more wire pulling, ask him or her why you can't just stick a hub into the outlet you have, and have 7 new drops for half the price of one. The only problem with this plan is when traffic gets so high that you have to separate sub-nets. You can put two machines off the same hub onto separate sub-nets to save on traffic. At 100 MB, this will only be a problem in serious commercial heavy-use settings; but even -Page 4 there, it is unlikely that many single rooms will want to be on separate subnets. Usually rooms don't alternate engineers and sales people.
When it come to tools for the job a friend once gave me a bit of advice on tool-buying that I recommend to you. 'Buy the cheapest tool that is clearly better than what you need. ' Here is a guideline on how to actually do the wiring itself. Pick a location for your hub. Remember, preferably centered to keep cable runs shorter. A basement wall not too close to your electrical panel, or a wall in a closet, is useful. It may save you a lot of wiring if you use different hubs on different floors. Weigh your time and the cost of wire, versus the cost of an extra hub (s).
For this work you " ll need: . A modular plug-crimping tool. Phone ones will not work. The connector is smaller...
A cable tester. Don't skip this. There is nothing like looking at a bunch of cable wondering which one is bad... An inductive signal tracer is also a really good investment. You clip the tester on one end of a wire, and the tracer lets you follow the wire even hidden behind walls, or in bundles... A cable staple gun.
This is a big helping hand if you are careful not to damage the wire. Practice with an old piece first... Cable-labeling tape. A good write on tape like 3 M's Write-On Tape is nice -Page 5. Typical stuff like screwdrivers, wire cutters, pliers, stripers, sledgehammers, drill etc... Dust mask, gloves, and Safety glasses.
Save yourself a dozen trips to the eye doctor. Always use other safety equipment as appropriate Map out your wiring plan and decide how many wires go to each place. You may want to pull cable TV, phone, audio, intercom, etc. at the same time. If you are going to go to all the trouble, like fishing wires from basement to attic to wire a second floor, you would pull more wire than you need and also leave a string in to pull more later. Wire is far cheaper than labor.
You may want to install flexible conduit ('blue pipe') if you anticipate adding wires later. Figure out how you will get a wire from each place you want a connection or the hub location. This may involve painful vertical runs, crawling through attics full of fiberglass dust, remember your mask, and drilling through walls, headers etc. If you " ve got more than one floor, consider putting plates directly above each other to save on vertical drilling. Plan wire placements to avoid anything that puts out much of a magnetic field. Stay at least 6 ' from electrical wires if running parallel to them.
Another one that creates large amounts of signal noise is elevator shafts or florescent lights. -Page 6 Make a materials list and then order materials. Plan to leave a couple extra feet at each end of each wire run. Buy at least 10 % more of everything (especially wire) than you think you will need. Start getting wires in place.
Use staples to support long runs and to ensure gradual rather than sharp curves. If you staple be careful not to crush the wire. Do not pull hard on the wire, stomp it, crimp it, bend, or fold the wire. It would be a shame to get done with the pull and the wire has a break due to harsh treatment by the installer.
You can easily make the wire no good for 100 MB with any visible sign of damage. Start with the longest runs first. That way if you do damage a wire, you have a better chance of cutting out the damage and having enough to be useful for a short run later. It's best to finish each cable and test it before going on to the next.
In fact, test the first end of each cable before bothering with the second end. This can detect a shorted cable and save time and connectors. Put a socket on the equipment end, and a plug on the hub end of each cable. -Page 7 Don't strip the wires. Remove only as much outer cover as you need to do the connections. If you are new to this, practice on scrap cable until you can cut the outer insulation without nicking the inner insulation. The best bet is to cut only partway through, and pull to snap the last little layer.
Next, sort the wire ends into the right order for the socket. Untwist each pair just enough to get the wire ends all even, and never over 1 / 2 inch. Then trim the ends to be of the same length. Don't let copper hang beyond the ends, it can easily bend a little and short out the cable.
Then put each wire into the right slot on the socket and push it down. You can try to get them all lined up and then squeeze down the cover. I find it easier to punch each wire into its slot with a fingernail, so they hold better even before the cover secures them the rest of the way. Double-check which wire is which.
Plugs are a little touchier. Remove the outer cover about 1 / 2 inch. Adjust the length so there will be intact outer insulation under the strain relief, once it is pushed into the wires and is seated. The strain relief is a bit of plastic near the back of the plug that gets crimped down at the same time as the connector pins do. After removing the outer cover, sort the wire ends into the right order for the plug. Untwist each pair just enough to get the wire ends all even, and never -Page 8 over 1 / 2 inch.
One trick is to strip a little more than you need, sort the wires into the right order, and then trim them off evenly to the right length. Don't let copper hang beyond the ends. Right after trimming, use one hand to hold them straight, check the color order again, and use the other hand to slip the plug on. Look into the plug. It is normally a transparent plastic. Check that the wires are seated under the connector pins, and then put the crimp tool on and squeeze.
The most common error at this point is probably putting the plug on upside down, which will swap the wire order and may not work depending on the application. Remember to test the cable. But note that some testers do not stress test cables at high bit rates, they just tests that you " ve got all the connections right. Once you have all your cabling done, plug into the hub and go. Once you have done a few wire runs (pulls) it gets much easier. Your time will shorten and the over all layouts will improve. - Page 9 Work Cited Connect e com: sept. 2001 web Network world fusion: sept. 2001 web
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